Forget Tuscany: Italy’s Dazzling “Heel of the Boot” Has Clifftop Towns, UNESCO Villages & Half the Crowds

With a stunning coastline, hilltop towns, and historic villages, this lesser-known Italian region deserves a spot on your Travel Bucket List.

So you’ve done Rome, Florence, and the Amalfi Coast and you’re wondering where to go next in Italy? 

The answer is Puglia. 

Or maybe you’re planning your very first trip to Italy and want to trade the usual tourist hot spots for something more rural and authentic.

The answer is still Puglia.

Note: This post may contain affiliate links. If you choose to book through these links, I receive a small commission, which I will undoubtedly blow on more flights (it’s a vicious cycle).  All of this internet voodoo takes place at no additional cost to you. 

Stretching along both the Adriatic Sea to the east and the Ionian Sea to the south, Puglia is the largest region in southern Italy by coastline. Famously known as the “heel” of the designer Italian boot, it’s far enough off the main tourist trail that it still feels like a discovery.

My husband, Dave, and I recently spent a week exploring this sunny part of Italy. Our biggest takeaway? A week wasn’t nearly long enough. 

But, hey, isn’t that always the way with Italy? 

So, if you’re considering a visit to Puglia (and you should!), let’s talk about some of the best places to visit, how to get around, and a few tips for exploring this beautiful region of Italy. 

Why Visit Puglia?

Puglia’s landscape is unlike anywhere else in Italy. 

The first thing you’ll notice is that ancient olive groves line virtually every road in the region. That’s because Puglia produces roughly 40% of Italy’s olive oil. 

The dry-stone walls that divide the fields, the whitewashed farmhouses, the durum wheat fields stretching toward the horizon, it’s agricultural Italy at its most beautiful. 

Yet most visitors never see any of it because they fly into Rome and stay there.

The towns of Puglia are extraordinary. 

The region is home to some of the most distinctive architecture in the country: the trulli of the Valle d’Itria, the whitewashed hilltop towns, and the ancient cave dwellings of Matera just across the regional border. 

Every town has a “centro storico” (historic old town) made for wandering, ancient churches worth stepping inside, and a labyrinth of narrow streets that makes it fun to get a little lost.

Puglia’s food and wine scene is one of Italy’s best-kept secrets. 

Orecchiette pasta, burrata so fresh it shouldn’t be legal, focaccia barese, and octopus pulled right from the sea.

Not to mention the white wines from the Valle d’Itria that rarely make it onto export lists. Puglia grows the durum wheat that much of Italy’s pasta is made from. So dining here is the heart of Italy’s culinary scene.

And let’s talk about the beaches. 

The Adriatic coast delivers dramatic rocky coves and sea caves with water in shades of brilliant turquoise. While the Ionian coast has long sandy beaches and the kind of flat, calm water that’s perfect for families.

The best time to visit Puglia is May, June, or September.

July and August bring peak season crowds and summer heat that can be relentless, particularly inland. Spring and early autumn give you warm weather, manageable crowds, and the olive groves at their most beautiful.

How to Get to Puglia

Puglia is located in the far southeast of Italy. Getting here is a little more complicated than hopping a high-speed train from Rome to Florence. But it’s well worth the effort.

Airports in Puglia

The two main airports in Puglia are Bari Karol Wojtyła Airport (BRI) and Brindisi Airport (BDS). 

Bari is the larger of the two and has more international connections. That includes direct flights from London, Amsterdam, Brussels, and other European hubs. 

If you’re flying from the US, you’ll connect through Rome, Milan, or another major European hub. 

Brindisi is the better choice if you’re planning to spend most of your time in southern Salento. However, it’s a smaller airport with fewer flight options.

Ferries to Puglia

One more option worth considering: both Bari and Brindisi have ferry connections from Greece. 

Dave and I arrived in Bari by overnight ferry from Corfu after two weeks of island-hopping in the Ionian Islands. The ferries between Greece and Italy are more like mini cruise ships.

Read More: Skip the Touristy Cyclades, The Sun-Splashed Ionian Islands are Greece’s Island-Hopping Paradise

We booked a cabin, got a little sleep on the 9-hour ride, and arrived ready to go. Docking in Bari harbor at dawn with a Freddo Cappuccino in hand is a pretty good way to start a Puglia trip.

Tip: The absolute best site for booking ferries in Greece is FerryHopper.com.

Trains to Puglia

If you’re coming from Rome or Naples, the train is a reasonable option. It’s roughly four to five hours from Rome to Bari on Trenitalia.

The main towns in Puglia are well connected. For example, it’s just one hop on the train between Polignano a Mare and Monopoli. But travel between smaller towns can get more complicated.

Whether you arrive in Bari or Brindisi, both airports have plenty of car rental desks. And that brings me to my next point…

Best Way to Get Around Puglia

Yes, public transport exists in Puglia. But if you want to explore the region properly, a rental car is the way to go.

The roads are easy to navigate, Google Maps works well throughout the region, and driving between the towns through ancient olive groves is one of the best parts of the trip. 

Car rentals are affordable, especially if you book in advance at either of the main airports. And even driving between the most spread-out places in the region, you’re rarely looking at more than a 90-minute drive.

On our trip, we took the train from Bari to Polignano for our first few nights. We knew we wouldn’t need the car there, so we waited until after our stay in Polignano to head back to the Bari Airport and pick up a car. 

We drove all around Puglia and then through Calabria and Sicily before returning the car in Palermo two weeks later. Including the one-way fee, it was less than $500 USD and gave us the ultimate flexibility to plan our itinerary.

One important travel tip: You cannot drive into the heart of any of the major towns. Most historic centers in Puglia have restricted access zones called a ZTL (Zona a Traffico Limitato).

Drive into one, and you’ll receive a fine in the mail weeks or months later that you won’t see coming. And if you’re planning to drive in Italy and had no idea what a ZTL was…

5 Beautiful Places to Visit in (& near!) Puglia

Every Italy itinerary involves a few hard choices. Especially if your time is limited. The Puglia region is no exception; there’s a lot of ground to cover.

When Dave and I started planning our trip, we had limited time and a long list of places on our wish list. These five made the cut, and not one of them disappointed.

One quick note: Matera, the last stop on our itinerary, is technically in the neighboring region of Basilicata rather than Puglia. But it’s simply remarkable and close enough to Puglia that leaving it off your itinerary would be a shame. Consider it a Puglia bonus.

1. Polignano a Mare

Perched on a cliff above the Adriatic coast about 30 minutes south of Bari, this seaside town is considered the star of the region. The centro storico is small and walkable with narrow streets, white buildings, and flowers spilling over balconies. 

But it’s the dramatic coastline that makes this one of the most beautiful small towns in Italy.

The rocky coves below the old town are perfect for swimming, and the main beach of Lama Monachile is the hottest spot in Puglia in the summer months. 

A boat trip along the coastline is the best way to see the sea caves up close. Including the town’s famous cave restaurant, Grotta Palazzese.

Don’t miss: The Domenico Modugno statue and a boat trip along the coastline.

Where to stay: Suite Polignano – Dave and I stayed in this incredible stone apartment with a terrace jutting over the sea, and it was simply spectacular.

Read More:  Forget the Amalfi Coast: Puglia’s Polignano a Mare is Italy’s Most Dramatic Seaside Gem

2. Monopoli

Just a few miles down the coast from Polignano, Monopoli is a coastal town that still feels like it belongs to the locals, not the tourists. 

The Castle of Charles V sits right on the water at the edge of the old town. Rocky coves with water clear enough to see the bottom surround the city walls, and the charming old port (Porto Antico) is lined with working fishing boats.

The name comes from the Greek “monos polis,” meaning single city, a name given by the Greek settlers who founded it.

That history runs deep here. You can feel it walking the narrow streets of the centro storico, passing ancient churches and medieval walls that have survived sieges, occupations, and two World Wars.

Don’t miss: An evening stroll along the Porto Antico as the sun goes down.

Where to stay: Hotel Don Ferrante – This boutique hotel with Adriatic views and a rooftop terrace is built directly into the ancient seafront ramparts of the old town.

Read More: The Walled City of Monopoli is Puglia’s Most Underrated Seaside Gem

3. Ostuni

Puglia’s “White City” is a hilltop town so thoroughly whitewashed that, from a distance, the whole town gleams brightly against the blue sky. 

The whitewashing tradition dates to the 1600s, when lime was applied to the buildings to fight a plague outbreak. The disinfectant properties worked well enough that the tradition never stopped. 

But there’s more to Ostuni than the famous white walls. 

Beneath the hilltop town lies one of the most remarkable archaeological discoveries in Puglia: the Dama di Ostuni, a 25,000-year-old Paleolithic skeleton of a young pregnant woman found in a cave just outside town in 1991. She’s displayed in a small museum in the Palazzo Ducale.

The views from the city walls stretch all the way to the Adriatic on clear days, and the restaurant scene here is one of the best in the region.

Don’t miss: The Dama di Ostuni at the Museum of Pre-Classical Civilizations and the famously photogenic blue door near Borgo Antico Bistrot. 

Where to stay: La Sommità Relais is a beautifully restored historic property right in the pedestrian heart of the old town with a Spanish garden and a luxe spa.

Read More: The Italian Hill Town of Ostuni Owes Its Most Famous Feature to the Plague

4. Alberobello

Alberobello is home to the region’s famous trulli. These iconic dry-stone huts with conical roofs make this small town in the Valle d’Itria look like nowhere else on earth. 

There are more than 1,500 of them clustered on a single hillside in the Rione Monti district, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The history behind the trulli is as fascinating as the architecture. Medieval peasants were ordered to build their homes without mortar so the structures could be quickly demolished when the royal tax collector came around.

Just pull the keystone from the conical roof and the whole thing collapsed in minutes. This arrangement went on for centuries before the town was finally granted official status in 1797.

The crowds arrive with the tour buses in mid-morning and thin out by late afternoon. Time your visit to one or the other.

Even better, spending a night inside a trullo for a “trulli” unique experience (sorry, I couldn’t help myself). Spending the night also gives you the chance to enjoy the quaint streets without the tour groups.

Don’t miss: The view from the Belvedere on Via Monte San Michele. It’s the one you’ve seen in every photo of Alberobello.

Where to stay: Trullo Antica Bellezza – This cute and cozy 2-bedroom trullo house has the historic charm with all the modern conveniences.

Read More: Italy’s Fairytale UNESCO Village of Alberobello is “Trulli” Magical

5. Matera

The ancient city of Matera is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. The sassi, ancient cave dwellings carved into the ravine walls, have been home to human communities for at least 9,000 years. 

In the 1950’s, the Italian government relocated the residents over public health concerns, and the cave city was left abandoned for decades.

But in 1991, during renovations to the main piazza, the Palombaro Lungo was rediscovered by accident. The enormous underground cistern, carved entirely from stone, once supplied fresh water to the entire city.

That discovery got the attention of the folks at UNESCO and, in 1993, the Sassi di Matera was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List.

But Matera really shot to fame in 2004, when Mel Gibson used it as the set for ancient Jerusalem in The Passion of the Christ. The rest, as they say, is movie history. 

The cave dwellings have since been converted into luxury hotels, restaurants, and museums. Stay two nights if you can; we only planned one and wished we had stayed longer.

Don’t miss: The Palombaro Lungo cistern beneath Piazza Vittorio Veneto, and a tuk-tuk tour of the Sassi at dusk when the cave city lights up.

Where to stay: Sant’Angelo Luxury Resort – A 5-star cave hotel in the heart of the Sassi, rooms and suites here are carved directly into the ancient rock. It was one of the most memorable places we’ve ever stayed.

Read More: Once Italy’s Greatest Shame, The Ancient Stone City of Matera is a Hidden Treasure

More Places to See in Puglia

Our one week in Puglia wasn’t enough to see it all, of course. If you have more time, here are a few of the places we’re saving for our next trip to Puglia:

Bari – While most visitors to Puglia treat Bari as a transit hub and move on quickly, that’s a mistake worth correcting. Bari’s Lungomare Promenade is the longest seafront promenade in Italy. Lined with cast-iron lamp posts and wooden benches, it’s the perfect place for an evening stroll.

Lecce – Nicknamed the Florence of the South, Lecce is a great base for exploring the Salento region. The entire city center is built from a warm honey-colored local stone — Lecce stone — that glows amber in the late afternoon sun. The Basilica di Santa Croce is the showpiece, an elaborately carved baroque facade that took over a century to complete.

Locorotondo and Cisternino – These two charming small towns in the Valle d’Itria are both worth a visit. Locorotondo sits on a hilltop surrounded by vineyards producing some of Puglia’s best white wines. Cisternino is one of those cute little towns that doesn’t make it onto many itineraries but absolutely should.

Martina Franca –  Arguably the most underrated town in the Valle d’Itria, Martina Franca is a beautiful baroque hilltop town with a lively centro storico. It sees far fewer visitors than its more famous neighbors.

Trani –  On the northern Adriatic coast, Trani is one of Puglia’s most elegant small towns. Its cathedral sits dramatically on the water’s edge, and the old port has a sophistication that feels a little different from the towns further south. It’s worth a half-day stop if you’re heading north toward Castel del Monte.

Castel del Monte – Frederick II’s 13th-century octagonal castle sits alone on a hilltop in the province of Barletta-Andria-Trani. Built during the Middle Ages entirely around the number eight, eight sides, eight towers, eight rooms per floor, nobody is entirely sure what it was built for. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site and an easy stop between Bari and Trani. 

The Salento Peninsula – The very tip of Italy’s heel is a different world from northern Puglia. The Ionian coast has long sandy beaches and shallow turquoise water. The Adriatic side has dramatic rocky coves and sea caves. Otranto is a beautifully preserved walled coastal town worth a visit. Gallipoli is the most popular beach destination in the south. 

The Gargano Peninsula – At the opposite end of Puglia, the Gargano peninsula is mountainous, forested, and wild. It’s a complete contrast to the flat agricultural landscape of the rest of the region. Gargano National Park covers much of it, and the Tremiti Islands off the coast have some of the clearest water in the Adriatic. 

Suggested Itineraries for Puglia

There’s a lot to see in Puglia and, obviously, we didn’t even cover half of it! But I always love to leave a little something to come back for (and we will definitely come back to Puglia).

Here’s our one-week itinerary and a few suggestions on how I’d spend another week if you have more time. 

7 Days in Puglia

A week gives you enough time to cover the five essential stops without rushing. This is loosely the itinerary Dave and I followed, and it was a perfect overview of the region:

Day 1 – 2: Bari and Polignano a Mare — Arrive in Bari, spend an afternoon in Bari Vecchia, and pick up your rental car. Drive down to Polignano a Mare for two nights. Take a boat trip along the coastline and make a day trip to Monopoli.

Day 3: Ostuni — Depart Polignano and drive south to Ostuni. One night here is enough to walk the white city, visit the Dama di Ostuni museum, and have a long dinner in the old town.

Day 4: Alberobello — Drive into the Valle d’Itria and check into your trullo. Spend the afternoon exploring Rione Monti and Rione Aia Piccola. If time allows, take a short drive to Locorotondo or Martina Franca for dinner.

Day 5 to 7: Matera — Continue on to Matera for two nights. Explore the Sassi on foot, take a tuk-tuk tour at dusk, and make time for the Palombaro Lungo. Use your last day for a slower morning before heading back to Bari for your flight home.

10 Days in Puglia

With 10 days in Puglia, I’d follow the same itinerary as above but add two nights in Lecce and one more night in either Polignano a Mare or Monopoli.

Ten days give you more time to slow down and linger in the smaller towns.

14 Days in Puglia

Two weeks is the perfect amount of time to do Puglia properly. It allows for a slower pace, more spontaneity, and enough time to venture north of Bari to northern Puglia. 

Stick to the 7-10 itinerary for the south of Puglia. And then here are the stops I would add for the last 5-7 days:

Day 11 to 12: Trani and Castel del Monte – From Matera, head north toward Trani. Stop at Castel del Monte for the afternoon, then spend a night or two in the seaside town of Trani. 

Day 13 to 14: Gargano Peninsula – With the extra week, you have plenty of time for the Gargano Peninsula, which is unlike anything else in Puglia. Two nights in a small town on the peninsula, a boat trip to the Tremiti Islands, and a visit to Monte Sant’Angelo are the perfect way to close out your trip to the heel of the Italian boot.

So, when will you visit Puglia?

Puglia has a way of sneaking up on you. You arrive expecting delicious food and pretty towns, and you leave wondering why it took you so long to get here.

Dave and I came for a week, and it wasn’t nearly enough. It never is. 

That’s not a warning, it’s an endorsement. 

If you’re planning a trip to Puglia, start with the five towns on this list. Rent the car. Eat the orecchiette. Stay in the trullo. 

And when you find yourself lingering over a glass of white wine at a Porto Antico restaurant watching the fishing boats come in, don’t fight it.

That’s Puglia doing exactly what it does best.