The Plague Gave This Italian Town Its Most Famous Feature

In the 1600s, this Italian hill town whitewashed every building to fight the plague. Today, it’s one of the most beautiful towns in Puglia.

There are white cities all over the Mediterranean. Most of them earn the name with a coat of paint and a good tourism board. 

Ostuni earns it differently. 

This hilltop town in Puglia’s province of Brindisi has been whitewashed since the 17th century. It dates back to a time when lime was applied to the buildings as a defense against the plague.

The disinfectant properties of limestone kept disease at bay. 

Note: This post may contain affiliate links. If you choose to book through these links, I receive a small commission, which I will undoubtedly blow on more flights (it’s a vicious cycle).  All of this internet voodoo takes place at no additional cost to you. 

The dazzling aesthetic was just a side effect. 

The tradition stuck, and to this day, the houses are still repainted white every year, glowing brightly against the olive groves and the distant Adriatic Sea.

That’s Ostuni. La Città Bianca. The White City.

A Quick History of Ostuni

The area around Ostuni has been inhabited for a very long time. We’re talking Paleolithic-era long, with Neanderthal hunters sheltering in the nearby caves more than 50,000 years ago. 

The most remarkable discovery from that period is the Dama di Ostuni, a 25,000-year-old Paleolithic skeleton found in a cave just outside town. She’s now displayed in Ostuni’s Museum of Pre-Classical Civilizations.

The first structured settlement was founded by a pre-Roman people known as the Messapii. The town was later destroyed by Hannibal and rebuilt by the Greeks, who named it Astynéon, meaning “new town.”

But things got interesting around 1000 AD when the Normans arrived. They transformed Ostuni into a fortified city with walls, gates, and a labyrinthine street design intended to disorient invaders.

Those narrow alleys that look so charming in photos? Yep, they were a military strategy.

The ancient Aragonese walls that encircle the old town remain largely intact today. Ostuni flourished during the Italian Renaissance before passing through several more centuries of feudal lords, Napoleonic influence, and eventual unification with Italy in 1860.

The whitewashing began in the 1600s during a plague outbreak and never stopped. What started as public health policy eventually became the town’s identity.

🗺️ How to Get to Ostuni

✈️ By Air

Your two main options are Brindisi Airport and Bari Airport.

Brindisi is the closer of the two, about a 30-minute drive from Ostuni. Bari Airport is about an hour and 20 minutes away by car, but it handles more international routes.

Depending on where you’re flying from, Bari may be your best option. Both airports have car rental desks, which brings me to my strong recommendation.

Rent a car.

🚗 By Car

A rental car is the best way to experience this part of Puglia. The surrounding countryside, the Valle d’Itria, the masserie, the ancient olive groves lining every road, that’s the whole point of coming here.

You won’t see any of it on public transport.

Ostuni has a large parking lot just outside the historic center, so getting in and out is pretty straightforward. Google Maps works well throughout the province of Brindisi, and the roads are generally in decent shape.

Just remember, if you plan to drive in Italy…

🚂 By Train

Ostuni’s train station sits at the bottom of the hill, about a 20-minute walk or a quick taxi ride from the historic center. Trains run regularly from both Bari and Lecce.

That makes Ostuni a very doable day trip from either city if you’d rather base yourself elsewhere in Puglia. The train won’t get you into the countryside, but if you’re sticking to the old town, it works perfectly fine.

🏨 Where to Stay

I’d recommend staying either inside or just below the whitewashed old town. That way you can walk to everything in the historic center. Here are a few great options:

Best Hotels in Ostuni

VISTA Ostuni – Located just outside the city walls, the name of this new, 5-star resort says it all. The views of Ostuni from the rooftop pool and garden are simply beautiful. Rooms are bright and modern and the spa is a nice added amenity. 

La Sommità Relais & Chateaux – This beautifully restored historic property is the best place to splurge inside the pedestrian area of Ostuni’s old town. Rooms are stylish and spacious, there’s a lovely Spanish garden shaded by olive and orange trees, and a full spa with a Turkish bath rounds out the 5-star amenities. 

Hotel La Terra – Located right in the heart of Ostuni’s historic old town, this budget-friendly hotel has some of the best panoramic views in the city. It’s a boutique property with high ceilings, stone walls, and a convenient shuttle from a nearby parking area.

Best Airbnbs in Ostuni

Alesia Luxury Cave – If you’re looking for luxury and romance in the heart of Ostuni, this one-bedroom cave house is a dream. The highlight is the ancient cave converted into a private hot tub, perfect for soothing sore legs after a long day of stair climbing. 

Ostuni Terrace Hideaway – For a little more space and a dazzling terrace with a view, book this spacious 2-bedroom home. 

Fun Things to See & Do in Ostuni

1. Wander the Historic Center Without a Plan

This is not me being lazy with my recommendations. The “centro storico” of Ostuni is meant to be wandered.

The narrow streets split and loop and lead to dead ends and unexpected terraces with views over the surrounding countryside. Take an hour with no destination and no Google Maps and just walk. You’ll find it.

One thing to look for: the famous blue door near Borgo Antico Bistrot, one of the most photographed spots in the city. The contrast of that vivid blue against the white stone walls is exactly as good in person as it looks online.

2. Have Lunch at Borgo Antico Bistrot

And speaking of Borgo Antico Bistrot, it’s a great place to stop for lunch or cocktails.

Located right in the heart of the old town, this restaurant does a lovely job with local products, good wine, excellent cheese, and strong coffee. It also has a spectacular view of the countryside.

It’s a great spot for a long, unhurried lunch when your feet need a break from the cobblestones.

3. Visit the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta

The Duomo di Ostuni sits at the very top of the hill and has been there in some form since the 15th century.

The Gothic rose window on the facade is one of the most distinctive in Puglia, and the interior is cool and quiet even on the busiest summer days.

The Chiesa di San Vito Martire is another church worth a visit. The historic 18th-century Baroque church now serves as a museum.

4. Visit the Dama di Ostuni at the Museum of Pre-Classical Civilizations

Most visitors walk straight past this museum on their way to the cathedral, which is a genuine shame. The star of the collection is the Dama di Ostuni, a 25,000-year-old Paleolithic skeleton of a young pregnant woman discovered in 1991 in a cave just outside town.

She was buried deliberately, one hand resting on her abdomen, tools and ochre pigments arranged around her. The fetus is preserved with her in anatomical position.

It’s not a large museum, and it won’t take more than an hour.

5. Spend Time on Piazza della Libertà

Piazza della Liberta is the main square, where Ostuni’s two worlds, the whitewashed old town up the hill and the newer city below, seem to meet.

The Colonna di Sant’Oronzo stands at the center, honoring the city’s patron saint, and the surrounding cafes are ideal for watching everyone walk by. Order an espresso and stay longer than you planned.

6. Walk the City Walls at Sunset

The ancient Aragonese walls that ring the historic city of Ostuni offer some of the best panoramic views in the area, and late afternoon is when the light does something extraordinary to those white walls.

Time your walking tour right, and you’ll see the olive groves below turn gold and the Adriatic shimmer in the distance. This one is worth rearranging your dinner reservation for.

7. Eat at Osteria del Tempo Perso

One of the most well-known restaurants in Ostuni, and the reputation is deserved. It’s set in a cave-like space in the old town, the menu leans on traditional Pugliese ingredients, and the pasta is the kind you think about on the flight home.

August Bonus: Experience the Cavalcata di Sant’Oronzo

If you visit in late August, the Cavalcata di Sant’Oronzo is Ostuni’s biggest annual celebration. It’s a horse parade honoring the patron saint that fills the streets with Renaissance costumes, live music, and what feels like the entire population of the city. It’s loud, crowded, and completely wonderful.

One More Reason to Love Puglia

Ostuni earns its reputation without trying too hard. The white walls are a beautiful sight. The food is excellent.

And the surrounding countryside, with its ancient olive groves and trulli-dotted valleys, makes every drive feel like a bonus.

It’s also a perfect base for exploring this corner of Puglia. Alberobello is 30 minutes away. Matera is an hour.

Read More: Once Italy’s Greatest Shame, The Ancient Stone City of Matera is a Hidden Treasure

The Adriatic coast is even closer. You could spend a week here and not run out of reasons to stay.

Come for the white city. Stay for everything else.

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