Forget Corfu: This Tiny Greek Island is the Most Beautiful Destination in the Ionian Sea

There’s no airport. No party scene. Just extraordinary cliffs, sea caves, brilliant blue water, and the slow pace of life we all need more of.

I want to love Corfu. I really do. 

But I’ve tried twice now and I just can’t. 

Especially not when the lovely little island of Paxos is less than an hour ferry ride away. 

Located just 7 nautical miles south of Corfu, “Paxi” is actually a group of small islands and skerries. Paxos and Antipaxos are the largest of these islands. 

Note: This post may contain affiliate links. If you choose to book through these links, I receive a small commission, which I will undoubtedly blow on more flights (it’s a vicious cycle).  All of this internet voodoo takes place at no additional cost to you. 

Greek Mythology says that Paxos was the romantic hideaway of the god Poseidon. And after visiting for a few days, I get it.

The island’s colorful capital is Gaios, a pastel-colored port naturally protected by two islets – Panagia and Agios Nikolaos. The island is dominated by cypress trees and olive groves.

The sister island of Antipaxos is known for two stunning beaches, Vrika and Voutoumi, and vineyards that produce an excellent red wine.

Paxos is a tiny island, just 25 square kilometres, with a permanent population of around 2,500 people. There’s no airport and no party scene.

Just ancient olive groves, extraordinary azure waters, and a pace of life that makes you feel like the rest of the world is moving very fast (and getting very little done).

Paxos nearly didn’t make our Ionian itinerary this summer. It felt almost too small, too quiet, too easy to dismiss in favor of its flashier neighbors. But we decided to give it three nights anyway.

And I’m so glad we did, it turned out to be the single best stop on our two-week Ionian Islands trip.

If you’ve been debating whether Paxos is worth the effort to reach, I’m here to tell you it absolutely is. Here’s everything you need to know.

🗺️ How to Get to Paxos

There’s no airport on the island, so the only way in is by sea. Getting to Paxos is simple if you’re coming from Corfu, or traveling in the peak summer months of July and August.

But as we discovered the hard way, in June it’s a little more complicated.

✈️ By Air

The closest airport to Paxos is Corfu Airport (CFU) on the island of Corfu, about an hour away by ferry. Corfu gets direct flights from much of Europe during the summer months, so this is the most practical entry point for most international visitors.

You can also fly into Preveza Airport near Lefkada or even into Athens and connect onward. But Corfu is the most straightforward option with the most reliable ferry connections to Paxos.

⛴️ By Ferry

Most people reach Paxos by ferry from either Corfu or Igoumenitsa on the Greek mainland. The crossing from Corfu takes about an hour; from Igoumenitsa it’s roughly 1.5 to 2 hours. Both routes operate during the summer season, with more frequent sailings in July and August.

When we visited in early June, the full summer ferry schedule hadn’t kicked in yet. That made getting here from our last stop in Lefkada a little tricky.

With no island-to-island service running, our only option was to hire a car service to drive the two hours to the Igoumenitsa port on the western coast of the mainland. That worked fine, but added cost and time we hadn’t initially budgeted for. 

The other option would have been flying from Preveza to Corfu and catching the one-hour ferry from there.

Tip: The absolute best site for booking ferries in Greece is FerryHopper.com.

🏨 Where to Stay in Paxos

The main town of Gaios is the obvious base and it’s a good choice. The capital of Paxos sits around a beautiful natural harbor on the east coast of the island.

There’s a pretty waterfront lined with restaurants, cafes, and small shops. And it’s close enough to walk to and from the ferry port.

The town of Lakka in the north is another lovely option if you want something even quieter. It’s a small horseshoe-shaped harbor with a sleepy vibe.

But for easy access to everything, Gaios wins.

Best Hotels

The Captain’s Bridge Apartment – This is where we stayed, and we adored it. It’s literally 5 steps from the sea and overlooks the harbor right in the center of Gaios.

We slept with the windows open and heard the boat sails quietly clinking in the harbor. The kitchen had everything we needed and more. And the whole place was spotlessly clean with a comfortable, contemporary feel. It truly felt like our home.

Bastas Hotel Paxos – One of the most well-regarded small family-run hotels on the island, this hotel is located in the northern town of Lakka. with a rooftop swimming pool and a sunny terrace, this is the top hotel pick in Lakka.

Glyfada Beach Villas – Located near the fishing village of Longos, this property offers spacious traditional villas with panoramic Ionian Sea views. It also includes 2 swimming pools and a seaside tavern. For a more private, resort-style stay where you’re not on top of other guests, this is the perfect option.

Best Airbnbs

Averto Avali: Waterfront Residence – Located right on the colorful waterfront in Gaios, this restored 200-year-old mansion oozes Greek charm. With 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, and a large stone terrace features a BBQ and sitting area. If you’re looking for a place to call home on Paxos, this is it. 

Elia Junior Suite- Lavish with ample spaces – Just a short walk from the shops and restaurants of Gaios, this cozy one-bedroom apartment comes with one standout feature – a private pool. Perfect for cooling off after a long day of exploring the island, you’ll find plenty to love about this Paxos apartment.

🌊 Things to Do in Paxos

1. Take a Private Boat Trip Around the Island

This is the single best thing you can do on Paxos. If you only have one day, 100% do this. Dave and I booked a private boat trip with a skipper on our first full day, and it was the highlight of our entire stay. 

There is simply no better way to see the sea caves along the dramatic western coast, access the beaches that have no road access, and make the crossing to Antipaxos.

The western shore of Paxos is all towering limestone cliffs dropping straight into the sea, with caves carved into the rock that glow an impossible shade of blue when the light hits right.

You can’t get anywhere near this coastline without a boat. Yes, you can rent your own small boat and be your own captain.

But we fully enjoyed the knowledge of an awesome local captain who grew up on the island and knew all the best spots to take us. As well as lots of stories about each cave from his childhood. 

👉Tip: This Private Sailing Cruise to Paxos and Antipaxos is a great option. But you’ll find plenty of other local options around the harbor. 

Visiting Paxos from Corfu:

As I mentioned earlier, I’m not a huge fan of Corfu. The first time I visited years ago, there was a taxi strike and I couldn’t get anywhere on the island. I literally had to walk to the airport with my luggage because it was a Sunday and there were no buses.

The best part of my visit was taking the ferry across to Albania (which was awesome!).

Read More: Forget France or Italy, This Lesser-Known Destination is Europe’s Most Affordable Riviera

I gave Corfu another chance on this trip, and there was a water shutdown in all of Corfu Town. Imagine for a moment, zero available restrooms for 4 cruise ships full of visitors in town on that particular day.

I don’t know who runs this island, but there must be a better way to do it. 

If you’re visiting Corfu (especially on a cruise), one of the best decisions you can make is to just book a day trip to Paxos. 

This Paxos Antipaxos and Blue Lagoon Day Full Day Semi-Private Cruise from the Lefkimmi Port is a terrific option. Or, from Corfu Town, book the hugely popular Full-Day Boat Tour of Paxos, Antipaxos & Blue Caves from Corfu. Just keep in mind that this trip is on a much bigger boat, and you won’t be able to get to all the places we went to on our private small boat. 

2. Visit Antipaxos, Greece

Paxos’s tiny sister island, Antipaxos is just two kilometres to the south. It’s also the reason people talk about this corner of the Ionian Islands in slightly reverent tones.

The beaches on this beautiful island are some of the most beautiful I’ve seen anywhere in the Greek Islands, and I’ve seen a LOT of Greek beaches. 

Read More: The 7 Best Greek Islands for Beaches (You’ve Never Heard of #4)

Voutoumi Bay is the one everyone talks about, and for good reason. While most Greek beaches are known for pebbles (or even large rocks) Voutoumi Bay is one of the few in Greece with bright white sand and turquoise waters so clear you can see the bottom at serious depth.

It’s a setting that looks faintly unreal, like the perfect Caribbean Beach right here in the middle of Greece.

Vrika Beach is equally beautiful and sits just north of Voutoumi Beach on the same coastline. Both have beach tavernas serving simple food and cold drinks.

The island has almost no permanent population — it’s basically just olive trees, cypress trees, vines, and those two extraordinary beaches. Day-trippers pour in during peak season, so go early or late in the day to get the best of it.

Tip: If you don’t book a full-day trip, it’s easy to pick up a taxi boat in Gaios harbor to either beach. 

3. Explore Gaios Harbour

The harbour of Gaios is a delight to explore. The main port sits in a protected channel between the mainland of Paxos and two small islets, giving it the feel of a river harbour rather than an open sea port. In the evenings, the waterfront comes alive with people eating at the local restaurant options lining the quay and watching the yachts come and go. 

Lined with neoclassical mansions painted in pink, ochre, or sky blue, it looks like a painting as the sun sets.

The capital of Gaios is small enough to walk end-to-end in fifteen minutes. But there are enough good restaurants, a tourist office, bakeries, and little shops to keep you entertained for an afternoon.

Don’t miss the George Anemoyiannis monument located at the entrance to the port. Born in Paxos in 1798, “George of Paxos” died heroically in the Greek revolution of 1821. 

4. See the Blue Caves & Tripitos Arch

If you do a boat trip around both islands, you’ll see all the best caves and the arch on your trip. But if you’re short on time, you’ll at least want to see the incredible caves along the west coast of Paxos.

There are seemingly hundreds of them, but the two largest and most famous are Ypapanti’s Cave and Cave Papanikolis.

Farther south along the west coast, you’ll pass by the beautiful Tripitos Arch.

5. Watch the Sun Set from Lakka

The town of Lakka at the northern tip of the island has one of the best sunset views in the Paxi Islands.

The harbour faces west, and as the light drops over the Ionian Sea in the evenings, the whole bay turns shades of orange and pink that feel almost theatrical. Park yourself at one of the tavernas on the waterfront with a glass of something cold and just wait for it.

6. Explore the Village of Longos

The smallest of the three towns on Paxos, this tiny fishing village is like a mini Lakka. It won’t take you long to explore the small promenade lined with a few cafes and tavernas.

If you want to avoid the day-trip crowds from Corfu in Gaios around lunchtime, this is the place to come for a quiet lunch by the sea.

Most boat trips around the island will include a stop here. But if yours doesn’t, Longos is worth seeking out on your own.

7. Eat Well and Drink Local White Wine

The food on Paxos is better than you might expect for such a small island. The local restaurants in Gaios serve proper Greek food — fresh fish, good grilled meat, solid mezze.

A delicious meal here isn’t hard to find. You can also expect to find a well-fed local cat waiting patiently at your feet. In the event you decide to throw any bits of seafood their way.

The local white wine from the Ionian Islands is light, crisp, and perfect for warm summer days by the harbor. The Ionian wines have been one of the best surprises of our two weeks island-hopping around these islands.

So, is Paxos the best Ionian Island?

To us, it definitely was. Yes, we loved Kefalonia and Zakynthos. And even enjoyed Lefkada more than we thought we would. 

But it was tiny Paxos that really stole our hearts on this trip. On previous trips, we’ve felt the same way about Symi and Koufonisia, two of our all-time favorites.

If you’re thinking of visiting Paxos, don’t do it as a day trip from Corfu (unless that’s your only option). I know it’s tempting, the one-hour ferry from Corfu makes it easy to pop over and back in a day, and plenty of tour operators sell exactly that. 

But the magic of Paxos really comes to life once the day-trippers have gone home. By late afternoon, when the excursion boats head back toward Corfu, the island settles into something much quieter and more lovely.

The main square in Gaios fills with local children playing and yachties emerging from their boats in search of a great meal. The restaurants feel unhurried, and the whole place seems to exhale as the sun sets.

So add a few days in Paxos to your island-hopping itinerary in the Ionian islands, you won’t regret it.

Looking for more beautiful places in Greece? Start here:

10 Irresistible Greek Islands to Visit This Summer (#8 is Greece’s Best-Kept Secret) ☀️

Home to the Prettiest Little Village in Greece, Kefalonia Island is an Ionian Gem

7 Reasons Naxos is the Best Greek Island (for pretty much everything)