Made up of more than 400 islands and rocky outcrops, the San Juan Islands straddle the border between the US and Canada. Just 80 miles north of Seattle, the islands are part of the US state of Washington. Best known for their resident pods of orca whales, the San Juan Islands are also home to the greatest concentration of Bald Eagles in the continental United States.
The islands are a terrific spot for a family vacation or a romantic getaway. Full disclosure, San Juan Island was the site of my first vacation with my now husband and we consider it the place where we fell in love…so expect what follows to be a thorough San Juan Islands Travel Guide with perhaps a slight love-struck bias!
Getting to the San Juan Islands
Though you can fly from Seattle by seaplane or wheeled-plane, the most common way to reach the islands is by a combination of car and ferry. The four largest islands -San Juan, Orcas, Lopez and Shaw – can be easily reached from the mainland via scenic passenger ferry service from the coastal town of Anacortes.
From Seattle, the drive to Anacortes takes about 90 minutes. Washington State Ferries accommodate both passengers and cars and depart frequently for the islands in the summer months. The ferry ride (depending on your island of choice) takes from 45 -75 minutes and provides a stunning preview of the islands along the way. Keep an eye out for orcas!
If you’re planning to bring a car on the ferry, advance reservations are now available and recommended. For those traveling on foot, reservations are not necessary. Parking is available at the Anacortes ferry terminal if you’d prefer to ditch the car and make use of shuttles or bikes to get around the islands (that said, we did find it extremely convenient to have a car). Also, note that all ferry tickets are round-trip, meaning you only pay coming to the San Juan islands, not on the return.
San Juan Island
The main island of San Juan makes the perfect base for exploration with the most extensive tourist infrastructure and a variety of hotel options in both Friday Harbor and Roche Harbor.
The historic harbor town of Friday Harbor delights with open-air markets, art galleries, shops, restaurants and a variety of hotels and B&B’s. From town, it’s easy to get around the island using the San Juan Transit mini-bus which travels the Scenic Byway making stops at all the island’s parks and points of interest.
My favorite hotel in Friday Harbor is the Earthbox Inn & Spa. Just 4 blocks from the ferry terminal, this stylish hotel features a full-service spa and 73 newly-renovated cozy rooms. The hotel offers free beach cruise bike rentals and is just a short walk to the restaurants and shops of Friday Harbor. Budget-friendly options are limited on the island but The Orca Inn is a solid choice for those on a tight budget. Rooms are small but clean and it’s just a short walk into town.
For activities, don’t miss wine tasting at San Juan Vineyards, the alpacas at Krystal Acres or harvesting your own lavender at the Pelindaba Lavender Farm. Whale watching tours are the most popular activity on San Juan Island but for those who prefer to stay on dry land, the killer whales can still be spotted regularly from shore, especially from the Whale Watch point at Lime Kiln Park on the western side of the island. There, you’ll also find the historic Lime Kiln Lighthouse.
The most popular activities throughout the islands are sea kayaking and whale-watching. During the summer months of May to September, whale watching tour operators boast a 90% success rate for orca sightings.
Located on the northwest side of San Juan Island, the quaint village of Roche Harbor is perhaps best known for its landmark Hotel de Haro. The hotel is named for Spanish explorer Gonzalo Lopez de Haro, the first European to discover the San Juan Islands.
Lime production was once a major industry in the islands and the small, protected harbor was originally developed as a company town for the Tacoma and Roche Harbor Lime Company, which incorporated in 1886.
The sheltered anchorage of Roche Harbor’s marina is a designated port of entry for those sailing the San Juan Islands and considered one of the best marinas in the Western United States.
Whether you stay at the historic Hotel de Haro, dock at one of the marina’s 377 slips or simply visit for an afternoon from Friday Harbor, this tiny village with its yellow-brick roads, flowering arbor and quaint shops will likely be the highlight of your visit to the islands.
Ferries arrive at the southern tip of Orcas, about 8 miles from charming Eastsound, the main village on this horseshoe-shaped island known as “the Emerald Isle.”
Like San Juan Island, outdoor activities abound on Orcas Island. The island is home to one of the country’s most beautiful parks, Moran State Park, with more than 5,000 acres of hiking trails and lakes. And, of course, whale watching is at its prime during the summer months.
The island’s best views can be found atop its highest point, Mount Constitution. You can drive, bike or hike up to the top for jaw-dropping views of the entire island group and snow-capped Mount Baker.
For lodging on Orcas Island, one of the top choices is the Rosario Resort & Spa. Located on Cascade Bay, the Rosario Resort & Spa is home to waterfront dining at the Moran Mansion, listed on the National Historic Register. All 107 rooms and suites offer spectacular water views spread across 30 waterfront acres.
If you don’t arrive to the island by car, San Juan Transit offers weekend summer shuttle service connecting the Ferry Landing, Deer Harbor, Eastsound, Moran State Park and the Rosario Resort.
With just 2,500 year-round residents, Lopez is known as “the Friendly Isle.” Hiking, cycling and kayaking are the most popular activities on this tranquil island but you can also just relax on one of many beautiful beaches.
The options for accommodation on Lopez Island include everything from in-town hotels to B&B’s and private, waterfront cabins. The Edenwild Boutique Inn is a gloriously-restored Victorian home with colorful rooms that each feature a fireplace. This cozy B&B has a lovely terrace and also offers a delicious breakfast.
As the smallest of the ferry-served islands, Shaw Island is less than 10 square miles. With no restaurants or hotels, the island is best visited by day trip on foot or bike. If staying on one of the larger islands, you can ride the ferry for free as a walk-on or bike passenger departing for Shaw in the morning and returning by mid-afternoon.
At the ferry terminal you’ll find a stocked general store with a deli where you can pick up a few supplies for your day on the island. Highlights for a day trip include the Our Lady of the Rock Benedictine Monastery where the nuns run an active farm and welcome visitors. From there, head for the stunning shorelines of Shaw County Park to enjoy your picnic lunch and then check out the University of Washington’s biological preserve and the island museum and library.
With so much natural beauty to offer, the San Juan Islands make a terrific weekend getaway from the hustle and bustle of Seattle. As the place where my husband and I fell in love, of course, I may be a little biased. But there’s no denying the spectacular landscape enjoyed by these lovely islands so close to one of America’s best cities.
So, if you’re planning a trip to Seattle, don’t miss the chance to spend a few days exploring the islands. I hope this San Juan Islands Travel Guide will help you make the most of your stay!