How to Survive Driving in Ireland (Plus a 4-Day Road Trip Itinerary!)

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The pros and cons of driving in Ireland, plus the perfect 4-day road trip itinerary along the Wild Atlantic Way.

Like many Americans planning a trip to Ireland, my husband and I had an important decision to make before our trip.

Do we, or don’t we, rent a car to drive ourselves around the emerald Irish countryside?

I had, of course, thoroughly researched this subject before even suggesting the idea of renting a car and driving around Ireland. And I felt like we were up to the challenge.

After all, we’ve driven around Scotland, the Faroe Islands, Thailand, New Zealand, and plenty of other countries in our previous travels. We should be able to handle driving in Ireland, right?

Note: This post may contain affiliate links. If you choose to book through these links, I receive a small commission, which I will undoubtedly blow on more flights (it’s a vicious cycle).  All of this internet voodoo takes place at no additional cost to you. 

But my husband Dave, the eternal skeptic, isn’t convinced. He’s never been a fan of driving on the left and adding narrow country lanes to the mix isn’t likely to improve the experience.

“What about the road conditions, what kind of shape are they in?” he asks.

A pause, while I consider how much honesty is required in this situation.

“Well, the highways are great,” I say, easing into the truth, “but the rural roads – where we’ll spend most of our time – can be very narrow, winding, and (possibly) filled with large, speeding trucks and/or livestock.”

Despite his noticeable discomfort with that last part, we ultimately do decide to rent a car for our 4 days in Ireland.

In this case, convenience wins out over caution. With just four days to explore, the only realistic way to tackle our wish list is with our own set of wheels.

So here goes nothing!

Pro Tip: I wish I’d known then about a new company called Tripiamo that provides international driving guides (via helpful instructional videos) to prepare travelers for driving in other countries. They have an excellent Guide to Driving in Ireland. If you’re planning to drive in Ireland, it’s a must!

Can you see Ireland in 4 days, you ask?

Well, obviously no. But, with the help of a properly-insured rental car, you can see heaps!

For our 4-day Irish road trip, we’ll target the southern portion of Ireland’s “Wild Atlantic Way,” ending with a stay in Dublin. To save driving time, we flew into Shannon Airport on the west coast and will later depart from Dublin at the end of our trip.

I’ll delve more into the itinerary in a moment, but first, a few words about our mode of transportation…

5 Tips for Renting a Car in Ireland

We land at Shannon Airport at 10:30am and dart straight for the rental car counter. After exhaustive research on DiscoverCars.com, we chose Dooley Car Rentals (which is now owned by Enterprise).

Now, if you’re from the United Kingdom or one of many European countries, you can skip this section. For you, driving in Ireland will likely be a piece of cake.

However, if you’re an American considering a (self) driving tour of Ireland, there are several things to consider when renting your car. Like the fact that the steering wheel will be on the right side of the car.

Here are the primary vehicle considerations for a road trip around Ireland:

1. What size car should I get?

Book the smallest car available. When renting a car in Ireland, size matters. We reserved a Nissan Micra (yes, it is as small as it sounds). The goal: to increase our odds of success (i.e. staying alive) while navigating Ireland’s narrow country lanes.

One caveat, avoid the glorified golf cart known as the Smart Car. Yes, it’s the smallest car available. No, it probably won’t get you up those steep hills in the Conor Pass along the Wild Atlantic Way. Not to mention, unless your luggage is the size of a shoebox, you’ll be strapping it to the roof.

But, while it’s true that the roads are barely wider than a Brazilian runway model in some places (and that’s for two-way traffic), they are generally well-maintained.

In other words, it’s safe to forgo the SUV or 4WD.

2. Will I have to drive a stick?

Probably.

Remember that like most of Europe, rental cars in Ireland are primarily manual transmission. Yes, you can get an automatic transmission car, but book early and be prepared to pay twice as much for it.

A word of advice…if you’ve never driven a stick shift, Ireland is definitely not the place to give it a go for your first time.

Similarly, if it’s been years since the last time you drove a stick and your skills are a little rusty, consider spending the money for an automatic. The last thing you want to worry about when you meet a lorry on a winding one-lane road with a sheer drop-off on one side is what gear you should be in. 

They drive on the left in Ireland, which means you’ll be driving from what’s usually the passenger seat and shifting with your left hand (awkward even for experienced stick shift drivers like my husband).

3. Insurance – yay or nay?

YAY. Dear God, yay. ALL OF IT. Whatever they will sell you.

I freely admit that I am usually cheap when it comes to rental car insurance coverage in Europe. Ireland is the lone exception.

Insurance options in Ireland are prolific. Even if you select insurance when you book, many companies will try to sell you additional coverage at the counter. This can easily double the price of your rental.

We play it safe and go with full coverage. Despite the fact that my Chase Sapphire card would cover us for driving in Ireland – most credit cards will not. (Note: If you have the Chase card and decide to rely on their coverage, you’ll need a note from Chase confirming your coverage to present at the counter when you pick up the car.)

Yes, Chase probably would have covered us. However, declining full coverage means a substantial hold is placed on your card during the rental. Additionally, any damages must be paid by the renter and then claimed with Chase for a refund.

With three more weeks of travel ahead, it’s not a chance we want to take. And the peace of mind is well worth the additional $75 over the length of our 4-day car rental.

We selected full coverage at the time of booking so when we arrive at the counter, we are only offered one additional option. The option to cover the tires and glass for an additional $5 per day.

My initial research revealed that the tires and windshield were not covered under any insurance, so we jumped at this offer. These are two of the most likely areas for potential damage while driving in Ireland, so the additional $20 is a welcome no-brainer.

All in all, a 4-day car rental picked up at Shannon Airport and returned in Dublin cost us $265. Not bad for the total freedom it affords us to explore the countryside without fear of any damage to the car.

4. Which rental company is best?

With Dooley now part of Enterprise, you’re left with the typical international rental chains.

But remember, the usual suspects like Enterprise, Avis, Hertz, etc can vary greatly by location. Many are independently operated. My best advice is to research reviews on the specific location where you’re planning to rent. And make sure you’re fully insured, no matter which company you choose.

I like DiscoverCars.com for comparing rates across a variety of companies and checking review scores.

5. Should I spring for the GPS?

GPS can be invaluable in navigating through some of Ireland’s more rural areas. We have T-Mobile’s free international data plan, so we can use our cell phones for GPS via Google Maps without a problem. And cell service is fairly reliable all over Ireland.

If you don’t have the ability to use your phone for navigation, it’s a good idea to spend the extra money on a GPS unit.

The Bottom Line: Get a small car, buy all the insurance, and don’t rent a manual if you can’t drive one at home on a good day.

But there’s one thing NO amount of insurance will cover…

Putting the wrong type of fuel in the car.

Who would do something so silly, you ask? It happens more often than you think.

Pumps in the Republic of Ireland are green for unleaded and black for diesel – the opposite of how they are marked in the United States. This is an extremely costly repair, so be extra cautious when you visit gas stations (or petrol stations as they call them over here!).

If you do put in the wrong type, do not start the car. Call the rental company immediately. Draining the tank is far less expensive than the resulting engine damage from starting it with the wrong fuel type.

Driving in Ireland – Here goes nothing!

We did our research. We’re prepared. We have our itty bitty car. Our seat belts are fastened.

It’s time to hit the road and pray for the best.

Dave takes a few minutes to familiarize himself with the car, test the clutch, and forget everything he previously knew about driving (which is the proper mental approach to adopt when driving on the “wrong” side.)

Moments later, we abandon the safety of the Shannon Airport parking lot and emerge into traffic in our tiny Irish car. Mostly prepared for whatever the Irish country roads will throw at us.

(Later, find out how we did and – more importantly – what we learned.)

Driving in Ireland Day #1 – The Wild Atlantic Way

Stretching for more than 1,500 miles along the western coastline, Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way is the longest defined coastal drive in the world.

From jagged cliffs and deserted beaches to Signature Discovery Points like the Cliffs of Moher, you could spend weeks exploring this scenic length of (mostly) pavement.

With just four days total in Ireland, we plan to devote the first two to the scenic Wild Atlantic Way.

The Magical Cliffs of Moher

The forecast for our 4 days in Ireland is typically Irish with lots of rain (the norm this time of year). So when we land to just partly cloudy skies, we’re excited to head straight for the Cliffs of Moher.

The drive from Shannon Airport takes about 90 minutes and is largely highway. It’s a nice grace period for Dave to adjust to driving on the opposite side of the road. Soon enough he’ll be confronting the single-lane-roads-used-for-two-way-traffic that are common in the Irish countryside.

The drive is beautiful and in no time we are parking at the Cliffs of Moher and paying our EUR 7 entry fee at the lot.

As Ireland’s most-visited natural attraction, the Cliffs of Moher rise 702 feet at their highest point and stretch for 5 miles along County Clare’s Atlantic coast. The area is home to 30,000 breeding pairs of seabirds including Puffins and even a pair of Peregrine Falcons.

Trails (mostly without railings, I might add) line the edge of the cliffs and spectacular views await around every corner.

Near the visitor center, tickets are available to climb the spiral staircase of O’Brien’s Tower view. Built in 1835, the tower offers views to five counties on a clear day.

Today isn’t an especially clear day, so we skip that in favor of exploring the nooks and crannies of the trails. I can’t imagine a better place to kick-off the first day of an Irish road trip!

A quick tour of Galway

Galway isn’t exactly on the way to our other destinations, but it is a stop along the Wild Atlantic Way. So, I figure since we are just an hour away, we should check it out (PSA: that kind of logic can lead to some really long days touring Ireland!).

Dave quickly settles into a groove on the country roads. He eventually learns to just pull over and stop whenever something large is barrelling toward us in the oncoming lane. This strategy works with all potential adversaries, except sheep.

Once in Galway, we make a beeline for Eyre Square, the town’s hub. Famished, we choose the first pub that looks enticing and order up some fish and chips.

After lunch, we meander the tangled streets of the medieval district for a bit enjoying the music of the local street performers. Then we hit the road for the 90-minute drive to our hotel and some much-needed rest.

A perfect stay near Limerick

My excellent hotel find for our first night is the Woodfield House Hotel, just outside of Limerick.

It is an absolutely charming B&B straight out of Irish central casting. With cozy rooms and a lively pub downstairs, it’s exactly what the doctor ordered after a redeye flight and a stressful day on the road.

The pub has terrific food and we share a savory Guinness stew and a sticky toffee pudding for dessert (side note: sticky toffee pudding, where have you been all my life?).

Driving in Ireland Day #2 – Wild Atlantic Way to Adare, the Dingle Peninsula, Killarney & Cobh

For our second day, we have a massive itinerary planned along the Wild Atlantic Way.

The original plan was to tackle both the Dingle Peninsula and the Ring of Kerry today. However, with one day of driving in Ireland now under our belts, we reconsider.

A quick look at the map shows it is ridiculous to think we can cover both in a single day. Each is worthy of a full day on its own.

So, with just one full day to spend in the area, we have to make a choice. We decide to focus most of our day on the Dingle Peninsula. And then limit our Ring of Kerry stops to the more central Killarney area.

Adare – Ireland’s Prettiest Village

But first, a quick stop in the heritage town of Adare often considered “Ireland’s Prettiest Village.” It’s on our way to the Dingle Peninsula from Limerick, so we can’t resist stopping to see the famous thatched cottages.

We stop for photos at the 13th-century Desmond Castle (one of Europe’s few remaining Norman castles) on the way into town. Then, we score a parking space along the main street to see the quaint thatched cottages and rugged stone buildings.

It’s a charming Irish village and well worth the stop. Luckily, it’s also small enough to enjoy in a brief stopover before we continue on to the Dingle Peninsula and the Conor Pass.

The Dingle Peninsula is Ireland’s most westerly point and one of the most popular sights along the Wild Atlantic Way. The most scenic way to reach the peninsula’s only town, Dingle, is to take a drive along the dramatic landscapes of the Conor Pass, the country’s highest mountain pass.

The adventure of the Conor Pass

I’m not sure I’d recommend tackling the Conor Pass on your first day driving in Ireland. However, on day two it’s a little more manageable. (Easy for me to say, I’m not driving.)

Like most along the Wild Atlantic Way, the roads are narrow and shockingly meant for two-way traffic. However, as an added bonus, roads along the Conor Pass also feature sheer drops off the side of a mountain.

Just to keep things interesting.

The landscape is rugged and rocky, yet strangely beautiful and it turns out to be one of our favorite drives of the trip. At the end of the Conor Pass, the road slowly descends into the seaside town of Dingle.

The Dingle Dolphin

Aside from its rainbow-colored storefronts, the town of Dingle is famous for two things – a dolphin named Fungie and Murphy’s Ice Cream.

Fungie, once Dingle’s most famous resident, was a male bottlenose dolphin who visited the fisherman of Dingle Bay for nearly 40 years. Popular boat tours once took visitors out to see the dolphin known for delighting tourists and locals alike.

Sadly, Fungie hasn’t been spotted since 2021. No one knows how old Fungie was but locals believe the beloved dolphin surpassed the normal lifespan for a bottlenose dolphin (about 45 years). Today, a bronze statue of Fungie commemorates his importance to the community.

Since we can’t see Fungie, we opt for Dingle’s second most famous attraction, Murphy’s Ice Cream.

Because. Ice cream.

Handmade in Dingle, this artisan ice cream shop is unlike any other I’ve visited. Made with all-natural ingredients including the milk of Kerry cows, Murphy’s creative flavors run the gamut. From Sticky Toffee Pudding (yay!) to Irish brown bread (pass) to gin (yes, gin as in “and tonic”), there’s something for everyone.

Though the original location is in Dingle, the popular shop can now also be found in Killarney and Dublin. (It is so delicious that we later search out the Dublin location.)

Killarney National Park

It’s the primary hub along the popular Ring of Kerry, surrounded by the verdant landscape of Killarney National Park. Killarney definitely caters to the tourist set and we are surprised by the number of large, resort-style hotels in town.

But not by the massive amount of tour buses now sharing our narrow road.

We stop first at Ross Castle, a 15th-century fortress at the edge of the Lower Lake. The castle’s interior is by guided tour only. Since we don’t have many other castles on our itinerary, we happily fork over EUR 5 each to take the tour.

The tour itself is fascinating. But the views over the lake and the national park from the tower are worth the price of admission alone. From the castle, we hike to the beautiful Torc Waterfall.

Athletic efforts for the day complete, we venture into Killarney proper in search of a late lunch before continuing to our final stop for the day.

Colorful Cobh

That evening we arrive at one of my favorite stops of the entire trip, Cobh.

Pronounced “cove,” this seaside town is most famous as the departure port for the Titanic in 1912. Today, maritime history still pervades its cobbled streets.

Originally called Queenstown, Cobh was also Ireland’s chief port of emigration in the early 20^th century. During those years, several transatlantic liners departed weekly.

Today, Cobh is a popular stop for cruise ships. Visitors can learn more about its role in Titanic history with an hour-long themed walking tour or a stop at the Titanic Experience museum.

Our hotel choice for the night is the Commodore Hotel. Right across the street from the harbor, the Commodore sits in a perfect location. Plus it has a rooftop garden with panoramic views over both the town and the waterfront.

Our room is comfortable and the pub in the lobby has tasty food and live music.

A little backstory: I originally added Cobh to our itinerary after finding a stunning Instagram photo of colorful houses fronting an enormous cathedral by the sea. I’d never even heard of Cobh. But when I stumbled across that picture, I knew I had to see it for myself.

With the car parked for the night and our bags dropped Dave heads straight for the bar. He is in dire need of a “medicinal” Guinness after another day of white-knuckle driving.

I, however, am on a mission.

Operation Instagram…

Determined to scour the streets for the coveted painted-houses-giant-church photo spot, I set off on foot. The town’s not that big, I muse, how hard could it be?

Turns out, harder than I thought.

The location of the church (St Colman’s Cathedral) is obvious, the entire town rests in its shadow. I even quickly spot the correct row of houses. But I cannot, for the life of me, figure out how someone got a shot of both. Especially, from such a high angle.

I walk along Bishop’s Road in search of the perfect view. Finally, I realize that to get it, I’ll need to hold my camera up over the 6’ wall lining the road and shoot blindly.

And ta-da! That’s it.

There may be an easier way to get the shot, but have no idea what it is. Mission accomplished, I rejoin my husband for a celebratory cocktail.

Driving in Ireland Day #3 – Cobh to Dublin

Our final day with the car will culminate in Dublin. But first, a detour in the opposite direction, south to the adorable seaside town of Kinsale.

The colors of Kinsale

Located in County Cork, Kinsale was originally a medieval fishing port. Two 17th-century fortresses – Charles Fort and James Fort – overlook the town. But most visitors come to Kinsale to admire the neon-colored storefronts that line the streets of the main shopping district.

Kinsale is known as southern Ireland’s gourmet capital and is home to a number of delightful restaurants and annual festivals.

Its yacht-filled harbor and vibrant shops and cafes make for a lovely walk around town.

The Rock of Cashel – worth the stop!

By lunchtime, we’re back on the road and Dublin-bound. On the way, there’s just one more stop on today’s driving itinerary – the Rock of Cashel.

Located in County Tipperary, the Rock of Cashel is one of Ireland’s most spectacular archaeological sites. Since it’s just off the motorway on our drive to Dublin, we (obviously) can’t pass it up.

Said to be the site of the 5th-century conversion of the King of Munster by St. Patrick, the Rock of Cashel is well worth a detour on any Irish road trip.

Though few of the early structures survived, many buildings date from the 12th and 13th centuries. It’s also home to perhaps the most remarkable collection of Celtic art found anywhere in Europe.

Amid stormy skies, we don our rain jackets for a walk around the complex. The extensive graveyard is a highlight, with historic stone high crosses standing watch over panoramic views. A vast green blanket of rolling hills lurks below. It is a spectacular scene.

Later we duck into a crowded pub in the adorable town of Cashel to fuel up for the final leg of our southern road trip.

Two hours later, a brilliant blue sky greets us as we roll into Dublin.

Dublin & Lively Temple Bar

For our stay in Dublin, we chose the Hilton Garden Inn Customs House. Perfectly situated along the River Liffey, the modern hotel is an easy stroll from the Temple Bar area.

Which is, conveniently, our first stop in the city.

Since a car is the last thing you need in Dublin’s city center, we arranged for our rental car company to retrieve the car from the Hilton’s parking garage tomorrow morning. There was no extra charge for this service and it sure beats returning the car at the Dublin Airport.

This leaves us free to wander on foot in search of a cold pint and live music.

And we don’t have to go far. We turn the corner into the teeming streets of Temple Bar and hear lively tunes coming from nearly every pub. We select the most famous of the pubs, the Temple Bar Pub, and work our way into the crowded main room.

Happily, an Irish trio is just beginning their set.

Afternoon turns to evening as we sip our pints and toast the end of Dave’s driving career in Ireland. Spirited Irish melodies permeate the room and cascade out crowded doorways onto cobbled streets. It’s a terrific Dublin evening.

Irish Road Trip Day #4 – The Guinness Storehouse & Jameson Distillery

For our final day, it’s time to dive into a couple of Ireland’s best exports – Guinness and Jameson’s.

We start with the Guinness Storehouse Experience Tour (a must when you visit Dublin!) and then head over to the Jameson Distillery for another excellent tour and a few whiskey samples.

Tip: If you’re planning to do both of these when you visit Dublin, this skip-the-line Dublin Jameson Distillery and Guinness Storehouse Guided Tour is a great option.

After the Guinness Storehouse and the Jameson Distillery, a self-guided walking tour of the city occupies the remainder of our afternoon. From Stephen’s Green and the Christ Church Cathedral to St. Patrick’s Cathedral and Trinity College, we cover it all (including another stop at Murphy’s Ice Cream!).

Later, one last steaming bowl of Irish stew in Temple Bar is the perfect end to our Ireland road trip adventure. OK, technically, another round of Sticky Toffee Pudding is the perfect end.

But who’s counting?

3 things we learned while driving in Ireland…

In addition to the exhaustive information listed above, we did pick up a few more important tips while on the road:

1. Toll Plazas – Watch out for “barrier-free” toll plazas (toll booths) along Ireland’s M50 motorway. If you pass one while using toll roads, you must pay the toll online here before 8:00pm the next day. Otherwise, your rental car company will charge it to your credit card. Along with a hefty service fee for the convenience.
2. Roadside Hazards – Once you’re off the main motorways and national roads, local Irish roads are narrow and many have shrubs or trees growing close to the road. These are unavoidable and can easily result in scratches down the side of the car. (Hooray for full coverage insurance!).
3. Roundabouts – Otherwise known as the Irish stop sign, these are ubiquitous throughout Ireland. Because you’re driving on the left side of the road, you must yield to oncoming traffic from your right in a roundabout. They have the right of way. And signal before exiting the circle. Trust me, this does not come instinctively. You’ve been warned.

(Again, Tripiamo’s Video Guide to Driving in Ireland will teach you about all that stuff!)

Those things aside, we absolutely loved our time in Ireland, especially the beautiful Wild Atlantic Way. And having your own wheels is truly the key to maximizing a short stay.

Despite a few minor moments of terror (both for us and the sheep), we actually did enjoy it.

The Bottom Line: Don’t be afraid of driving in Ireland. It is absolutely the best way to see the country, especially when you have limited time.

Nope, renting a car in Ireland is just not for me. Now what?

If you’re still not sure whether you could safely retain your sanity while driving in Ireland, there is another way.

From Dublin or any of the other main cities, day trip options are at your fingertips. Let an experienced guide show you all of Ireland’s best sights in relaxed comfort, here are The 7 Best Day Trips from Dublin Ireland.

These tours are the best way to explore the countryside without dealing with the driving situation.

But if you’re a bit adventurous and use common sense, there’s no better way to see Ireland than with your own set of wheels.

Just watch out for the livestock.

Have a few extra days?

If you have a couple of extra days on your visit to Ireland, the Isle of Man is a fascinating side trip and easy to reach from Dublin by ferry or a quick flight.

Read More: Top 3 Reasons to Visit Isle of Man? Castles, Coasts & Cats (if you’re lucky!)

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