Beaches, Spice & Everything Nice – How to Spend 3 Perfect Days in Zanzibar
Round the World #9 continues today on the African continent, next stop…Zanzibar.
After a lengthy (8-hour) layover in Lusaka following my incredible visit to Victoria Falls and a sleepless night on the plane, I land in Nairobi at 6:00am.
I’ve got two hours to kill in the Nairobi airport before my 8:00am connection to Zanzibar.
And thank goodness for the Kenya Airways Simba Lounge or I might have been reduced to finding a square of floor space somewhere. Even at 6:00am, the Nairobi airport is a hive of activity.
Note: This post may contain affiliate links. If you choose to book through these links, I receive a small commission, which I will undoubtedly blow on more flights (it’s a vicious cycle). All of this internet voodoo takes place at no additional cost to you.
Though booked through Kenya Airways (a Skyteam member), my flight to Zanzibar is operated by Precision Airways. We board the small prop plane right on time and I grab a window seat hoping to get a glimpse of Zanzibar on approach.
Little did I know our pilot had plans to start the show long before our arrival in Zanzibar.
The Flyby of a Lifetime
As we fly over mainland Tanzania on our way to the coast, our pilot announces that he’ll be making an intentional flyby of Mount Kilimanjaro, Africa’s tallest peak. The mountain, he explains, will be visible out the right side of the aircraft in about 5 minutes.
And for once in my life, I am actually on the right side of the plane!
I watch in awe as the mountain slowly comes into view out my window. We literally pass within what seems like inches (but is surely not) of the peak and it’s such a strange sensation to look out my airplane window and see a mountain at eye level (which in this case is 19,000ft).
In most circumstances that would be alarming, at best. But today, it’s truly a once-in-a-lifetime treat to see such a famous peak up close and personal. Most people work a lot harder to see the top of Kilimanjaro in all its glory, I just bought an airplane ticket.
Now, if I can just get someone to fly me over Mt. Everest, I’ll be all set.
Even the flight attendants are leaning toward the windows in the middle of the beverage service to get a look. In fact, one of the flight attendants spots me taking pictures and asks if I would send one to her if she gives me her e-mail address. Of course, I’m happy to.
I mean seriously, can this trip possibly get any more spectacular?
Every week I see something and think, “That’s the coolest thing I’ve ever seen” and then the next week I see something that tops it.
Arrival in Zanzibar
After the awe-inspiring in-flight show, the approach to Zanzibar is unimpressive due to a low cloud cover.
I arranged for an airport transfer to my hotel in advance through a local transfer company. My hotel, the beachfront Nungwi Beach Resort, is located on the North shore of the island more than an hour from the airport.
I briefly considered renting a car for my 3-night stay but decided against it after reading online that the roads can be tricky and there are police checkpoints every few miles.
Once I’m in the car and on my way to the hotel, I’m immediately glad I decided against the rental car. Not only is the traffic chaotic, but the police checkpoints seem to be quite a serious ordeal involving a comparison of vehicle registration and permit numbers at each of many stops.
My driver, Salum, says it’s kind of ridiculous. He drives these roads many times a day and still they stop him and check his vehicle registration every time. Most of the time, he says, they just want money. (Yep…definitely glad I’m not dealing with that!)
Aside from the police checkpoints, the hour-long drive out to the hotel is quite pleasant. As we drive, Salum fills me in on some of the island’s rich history.
Zanzibar’s History
A semi-autonomous part of Tanzania, the Zanzibar archipelago is made up of a number of islands. The largest islands are Unguja (commonly referred to as Zanzibar) and Pemba.
The capital of the islands is Zanzibar City (located on Unguja) and its historic city center is the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Stone Town. Stone Town claims to be the only functioning ancient town in East Africa.
For most of its history, Zanzibar’s rule fell under the Sultanate of Oman. As part of the “Spice Islands,” it did a bustling business in the spice markets and was also a major hub for the East African slave trade.
In the late 1800’s it became a British protectorate after the fallout of the slave trade.
Zanzibar briefly gained independence in 1963 before merging with nearby mainland Tanganyika to form the newly-named “Tanzania.” Due to its Arabic history, the local population is approximately 70% Muslim and 30% Christian.
The spice trade continues to be a main source of industry on the island, though tourism has overtaken it in more recent years.
As we drive along the island’s main road, we pass village after village full of smiling locals and children returning from school in their blue and white uniforms. Because of a lack of school buildings, the younger children go in the morning and the older children in the afternoon.
Nungwi Beach
We arrived at the Nungwi Beach Resort just after noon and I’m thrilled with my beautiful oceanfront room.
The room has plush furnishings, hardwood floors, and an overly-romantic (for just me) four-poster bed draped in billowing mosquito netting.
Not to mention a million-dollar view over the ocean.
The resort is literally surrounded by Nungwi village, a traditional fishing village on the Northern tip of the island.
When I first walk out to the beach, I’m blown away by the scene in front of me.
Nungwi Beach has dramatic tide shifts and it’s obviously low tide because dozens of wooden dhows (traditional fishing boats) lean on their sides in the sand, beached by the tide. It looks like a fishing boat graveyard for what must have been a mile radius. I’ve never seen anything like it.
But while the tide is out and the boats are in a forced “dry dock,” the women of Nungwi, dressed in multicolored wraps known as “gownis”, are hard at work painstakingly canvassing the low tide areas with buckets in search of clams and squid.
It is absolutely fascinating to watch. I pull up a lounge chair and that’s exactly what I do for the rest of the afternoon.
By 2:00pm, the tide starts to come in. As hulls are lifted by the ocean one by one, the men climb aboard their boats and head out to sea.
By 5:00pm, the tide is high and crashing against the hotel’s seawall. It’s amazing to see the stark difference between high and low tide here. And it’s great for sleeping at night since the waves crash right below my balcony!
What to do for 3 Days in Zanzibar?
With three full days to spend in Zanzibar, I have a rough plan in mind.
First, I want to spend one day doing absolutely nothing.
I’ve had a busy week traipsing all over Africa and I’m tired. A day in a lounge chair with a good book is just what the doctor ordered.
Second, I want to explore Stone Town, which is said to be a fascinating historical site.
And finally, I want to get out on the water and maybe do a snorkeling trip or see another beach or two.
So I headed over to the tour desk in the lobby to investigate my options.
Since Stone Town is near the airport, it makes sense to combine my trip there with my transfer to the airport on my last day since my flight isn’t until 7:00pm. So I book a Private Stone Town City Tour that will pick me up at the resort and drop me at the airport after my tour.
I decide to take tomorrow as my day of rest and book a Half-Day Snorkeling Trip to Mnemba Atoll for the following day.
It’s pretty much the perfect plan.
I spend my day of rest sleeping in (which I haven’t done at all on this trip yet) and then plant myself in a lounge chair for the afternoon. I alternate between reading and watching the fascinating people of Nungwi village go about their daily fishing activities.
There is a perfect sand bar just in front of the hotel that emerges every time the tide goes out. I claim it for myself. Later that afternoon, I take a walk through Nungwi village.
Zen in Zanzibar, Day 2
The next morning, feeling rested for the first time in weeks, I’m excited for my snorkeling trip. Unfortunately, when I arrive at the dive shop where it’s supposed to depart, the trip has been canceled due to high seas.
Darn it.
Apparently, I will have another day of rest whether I need it or not. I spend the day with my camera in hand, walking the beach (and my sand bar) and getting a glimpse into the life of the Nungwi people.
The women are so beautifully dressed in bright, happy colors and they are always laughing and smiling. Everyone greets me on the beach with an enthusiastic, “Jambo!” and it literally seems like the happiest place in the world.
The History of Stone Town
By Day 3, I’m feeling completely rested but also a bit restless. I’m ready to get out and see more of the island.
My car, driver, and guide, Hemed, picks me up at 10:00am and we’re off to explore Stone Town.
We begin our tour at the Anglican Church which sits on the former site of the heart of the slave trade, the auction site.
Hemed walks me through the church and describes how the slaves were brought there and the conditions in which they were kept. We then walk through the underground slave chambers and past the monument which stands today in honor of all the slaves who passed through here.
The Livingstone Connection
Ironically, it was again David Livingstone (this guy really got around) who played a large role in bringing the slave trade to an end.
When he visited Zanzibar and saw the slaves being auctioned, his protests to the Queen ultimately resulted in the island being claimed as a British protectorate. Because of this, Livingstone is held in equally high esteem in Zanzibar as in Zambia.
Stone Town Market
Next, we head into the bowels of the Stone Town Market, starting with the absolute smelliest, the fish market. This is definitely not the place for anyone with a weak stomach.
Flies swarm around every stand and the aroma is beyond nauseating.
From there we move on to the only slightly less nauseating beef area where butchers swing large cleavers and racks of still bleeding beef pass by me as I walk.
Thankfully, next we move on to the more visitor-friendly and far less vomit-inducing spice and fruit section. This part is actually quite pleasant and we wander the many stalls for a while.
Our next stop was the former royal palace which is now a fascinating museum of Zanzibar’s history. After leaving the museum, we walked through the narrow, winding streets of the old town and along the shoreline to check out Stone Town’s beach area. After that, I took some time to do a little shopping and have some lunch before finally returning to the airport.
I really love Zanzibar, especially the location of the Nungwi Beach Resort set within Nungwi village. It really makes you feel like a part of the village.
By the second day, I recognize some of the women and men and if you stay there much longer I imagine you’d get to know them all.
Everyone was so friendly and the women in their colorful gownis just made for a stunning scene on the brilliant white beaches and clear blue waters.
It’s the kind of place that feels tribal and yet luxurious at the same time. And it’s a place I absolutely hope to revisit someday.
But for now, it’s time to make my way back to Nairobi and catch my flight to Bangkok tonight. Because, of course, it’s just not a RTW trip without a Thai massage (or five) in Bangkok!