This Picturesque Calabrian Fishing Village is the “Mini Tropea” (& You’ve Never Heard Of It)
With a sparkling turquoise beach and a castle rising from the sea, this little-known Italian fishing village deserves more than a day trip.
It’s rare to find a small town by the sea in Italy that still feels a bit undiscovered. In fact, given the number of visitors Italy has seen in recent years, it’s practically impossible.
But that’s exactly what we found in the tiny Calabrian town of Scilla.
My husband, Dave, and I are mid-way through our trip across southern Italy from Pulgia to Siciliy.
While we were in Matera, we mentioned to our guide that we were headed to Tropea next. He said, “Oh, you simply must go to Scilla!”
Note: This post may contain affiliate links. If you choose to book through these links, I receive a small commission, which I will undoubtedly blow on more flights (it’s a vicious cycle). All of this internet voodoo takes place at no additional cost to you.
Luckily, we already had a stop in Scilla planned after Tropea. But I suddenly wondered if we should have planned an overnight stay instead of simply a lunch stop on the way to Sicily.
Long story short…we should have.
After a brilliant few days in Tropea (5 stars, highly recommend!), we left Tropea and drove south along the Calabrian coast toward the ferry to Sicily.
Read More: This Italian Beach Town Is So Gorgeous It Made Us Cry (Blame the Onions!)
An hour later, we came around a bend in the road and got our first look at Scilla (pronounced SHEE-lah, roughly like the English name Sheila).
The castle rising from the rock above the sea, the Chianalea fishing district crowded along the waterfront below, and the Strait of Messina glittering in the distance with Sicily visible on the other side.
Darn it, I thought, we should have planned an extra night.
Located in the province of Reggio Calabria on the Costa Viola, the Violet Coast, the ancient fishing village of Scilla is a stunner.
If Tropea is the glamorous headliner of the Calabrian coast, Scilla is the local favorite playing the smaller stage next door.
Same dramatic cliffs. Same crystal-clear waters. A fraction of the crowds.
And a mythology that makes Tropea’s Hercules legend look modest by comparison.
Homer set the sea monster Scylla right here. According to legend, Scylla was once a beautiful nymph transformed into a six-headed monster by the jealous sorceress Circe. She was condemned to lurk in a cave beneath these rocks and devour sailors passing through the strait.
On the Sicilian side, the whirlpool monster Charybdis waited for anyone who tried to give Scylla a wide berth. Odysseus sailed through here and lost six men. On a clear day, standing at the castle walls looking across the water to Sicily, you can see exactly why Homer chose this spot.
A Quick History of Scilla
The rocky promontory that Castello Ruffo sits on today was first fortified in the 5th century BC. The Greek tyrant Anaxilas of Reggio recognized its dominant position over the strait immediately.
The Romans expanded it and in 1060, the castle fell to the Norman leader Robert Guiscard after a siege. In 1533, it was purchased by Count Paolo Ruffo, who transformed it from a fortress into a princely residence and gave it the name it carries today.
The town has survived two devastating earthquakes, in 1783 and 1908, both of which caused significant damage to the castle and surrounding buildings.
Both times, Scilla rebuilt. The castle was restored and has housed the Scilla Lighthouse since 1913. Today it’s one of the best-preserved historic monuments on the Calabrian coast.
The fishing tradition here runs just as deep as the history. For millennia, the fishermen of Scilla have hunted swordfish in the Strait of Messina using feluccas, distinctive wooden boats with tall masts and forward platforms.
They harpoon the fish using techniques passed down through generations and unchanged for centuries.
How to Get to Scilla
Scilla is an easy day trip if you’re based in Tropea. It’s also a natural stopping point if you’re heading to Villa San Giovanni to catch the short ferry to Sicily.
The nearest airport is Lamezia Terme (SUF), about 90 minutes north by car. Reggio Calabria also has a small airport about 20 kilometers south.
Scilla’s train station is just a few blocks from the main beach. It’s also a convenient place to park if you’re visiting for the day like we were.
Trains run along the Tyrrhenian coast of Calabria, connecting Scilla to both Tropea and Reggio Calabria.
Getting Around Scilla…take the lift!
Like Tropea, Scilla has dramatic cliffs and a beautiful beach. That means getting from high to low requires a little work. But unlike Tropea, you don’t have to hike all those stairs.
There’s a super handy municipal panoramic lift that connects Piazza San Rocco to Marina Grande. It only operates seasonally, and there’s a small fee, but it sure beats all the stairs we walked to get from town to sea level in Tropea.
Where to Stay in Scilla
Scilla is compact enough that almost anywhere in the historic centre puts you within easy walking distance of the castle, the beach, and the Chianalea district (especially if you use the lift).
Though we didn’t end up staying in Scilla overnight, I did spend some time researching hotel options when we were still planning our itinerary. Here are the three options I had narrowed it down to:
Il Casato Deluxe Rooms – Right in the heart of the historic centre, this is the top boutique hotel option in Scilla. Stylish rooms, sea views, and a location that puts you steps from Piazza San Rocco and the castle walls.
B&B La Veduta – This small B&B is located directly on the water, and rooms have charming terraces with direct sea views. The daily breakfast, including homemade pastries, is another highlight of a stay at La Veduta.
Il Bocciolo – Locazione Turistica – If you plan to stick around in Scilla and need a little more space, this modern 3-bedroom apartment is ideal.
5 Things to Do in Scilla
The beauty of Scilla is that you don’t have to do anything at all. But if you must, here are a few things you probably don’t want to miss.
1. Visit Castello Ruffo
The ancient castle on the rocky promontory is the focal point of the town and the first thing you see when you arrive. From the castle walls, the panoramic view sweeps across the Strait of Messina to Sicily, south toward Reggio Calabria, and north up the Costa Viola.
On a clear day, you can see the Aeolian Islands and, if conditions are right, Mount Etna. The castle hosts exhibitions and cultural events throughout the year. It’s worth an hour of your time, even just for those views.
2. Wander Chianalea
Chianalea, the ancient fishing settlement tucked on the east side of the headland below the castle, is the part of Scilla that earns it the nickname “the Little Venice of the South.”
The narrow laneways run right along the waterfront, with the walls of the houses rising directly from the sea and tiny slipways leading down to fishing boats bobbing in the clear water below. It’s one of the loveliest corners of the entire Calabrian coast.
3. Swim at Marina Grande Beach
The main beach of Scilla, Marina Grande, stretches below the castle with fine sand, shallow waters, and the dramatic backdrop of Castello Ruffo rising above.
The beach is quieter than Tropea’s Spiaggia della Rotonda even in the summer months. And the crystal-clear waters here are some of the best on the Tyrrhenian coast of Calabria.
If you have the whole day, I highly recommend grabbing chairs at one of the “lidos” along the beach. For a reasonable fee, you get a couple of chairs, an umbrella, and access to restrooms and changing areas.
We had just enough time for a swim here after lunch and it was the perfect way to break up the long drive to Sicily.
4. Find Piazza San Rocco
The main square in the historic centre sits above the town with views over the rooftops and out across the Strait of Messina toward Sicily. It’s the social heart of Scilla, lined with outdoor bars and restaurants.
It’s the best place to sit with a glass of local wine and soak in the sea views. And speaking of local wine…
5. Drink the Wine & Eat the Swordfish
Scilla produces its own wine, the Scilla IGT, a small and prestigious designation covering reds, rosés, and a novello made from local black grape varieties grown on sun-drenched hillside vineyards above the town.
Production is limited, and you won’t find it far beyond the village, which is exactly why ordering a glass at a Chianalea waterfront restaurant is a must.
The swordfish caught in the Strait of Messina has been a staple of the local diet here for thousands of years. The most popular version is the swordfish sandwich you’ll find everywhere.
So don’t skip Scilla when you visit Calabria!
Our brief visit to Scilla wasn’t enough time. But on this trip, we’ve found that to be the case in several of our favorite places.
If you’re planning a trip to Calabria and trying to decide between Tropea and Scilla, the best answer is: do both.
They’re just an hour apart, and they’re both well worth seeing.
Scilla deserves more than a lunch stop. Build an extra night into your itinerary. You won’t regret it.
Looking for more beautiful places in Italy? Start here:
Headed to Italy? Here Are 20 Amazing Places to See from the Alps to the Amalfi Coast 🏔️🍋
Once Italy’s Greatest Shame, The Ancient Stone City of Matera is a Hidden Treasure
Pretty in Puglia: Where to Go in Italy’s Dazzling “Heel of the Boot”
Make Like Napoleon This Summer and Escape to Italy’s Dazzling Elba Island
5 Incredible Italian Islands to Add to Your Travel Bucket List (#4 is a True Hidden Gem)
The Fairytale Republic of San Marino: Italy’s Mountaintop Microstate
